3312 Esplanade Ave., 504-488-6946
THREE STARS
When you see a cluster of people waiting by the front door of this Esplanade Avenue eatery, you know it's a normal night at Lola’s. This casual eatery serves traditional Spanish cuisine, and has done so with such consistency for so long that it is a neighborhood standard.
Ambiance
This is a tiny restaurant, and that is part of its character and charm. It is very casual, with small tables situated close together and a convivial atmosphere across the room. The kitchen is open and you can see the flames from the stove as the cooks work. It is common to find a wait for a table here, and that has become part of the routine. Have a glass of wine from the inexpensive list and take in the beauty of the live oaks lining this picturesque stretch of Faubourg St. John.
Appetizers
First courses align with the tapas tradition, though the dishes tend to be larger than the portions at most tapas bars. Large, green-shell mussels in vinaigrette and the fish and shrimp ceviche are good cool starters, as is the gazpacho, of course, and the less familiar, almond-based ajoblanco soup (based on almonds). The antipasto plate sounds Italian, but this is a combination of Spanish cheese and meats. For something hearty get the garlic shrimp sizzling in spiced oil or the fabada, a white bean stew with pork and greens.
Entrees
Paella is the dish that draws most people to Lola’s. They portion it out in different sized pans for different sized groups. The version mixing seafood and meats is the most traditional and the best. Don’t overlook the fideua, a very similar dish prepared with vermicelli noodles instead of rice. It has a similar flavor but a different texture with a lot of crispy edges. The other entrées are straightforward and often benefit from excellent house sauces. For instance, the tuna steak is ignited by a spicy mojo sauce, and gorgonzola is made into a rich sauce for the rack of lamb. Keep the caldetera lamb stew in mind when the cool weather returns.
Desserts
The short, traditional dessert list runs through flan, almond nougat and chuflan, a dense chocolate cake. If you have a big enough group, just order them all.
Drinks
Lola’s was BYOB for so long that it still makes that option available to customers, with a corkage fee assessed. But the restaurant does indeed serve wine and beer now. It’s a short list built around inexpensive choices. Sangria is the mainstay.
Cost
Lola’s remains a very good bargain for the quality presented, especially if you share a few tapas and one of the paellas or fideuas around the table. Most tapas are under $10 and are substantial. Two people can have a full dinner with drinks for about $80.
Overall
Lola’s has been cooking up paella, tapas and other staples of Spanish cuisine for decades now. It's the kind of place that's comforting to visit because you know the heart of the menu will be the same, while lately more specials and a fresher touch have increased the appeal for more frequent visits.