Holiday Greetings to all! Here we are in December, quickly approaching the end of another year.  The year seems to have flown by, for some not quickly enough and, for others, like a speeding freight train.  I fall into the later group because there never seems to be enough time to do the things I like to do and the things I have to do. Here’s wishing that everyone gets the opportunity to do those things that bring joy and fulfillment to your life. 

What a strange month we have had with freezing temperatures one week, hot and humid conditions the next.  Insects, cutworms and slugs have been an issue.  Late autumn and winter gardens are usually free of damage from these pests, but not this year.  Between the weather and pests, my garden has taken quite a hit!

Loretta Boswell

Oak Tree with falling leaves

Home landscape:  Last month, I started discussing the importance of planting trees into the landscape.  This month the topic will be purchasing and planting the trees. Native trees are the best option for those replanting.  The trees that survived the hurricane all fell into this category, for example, the oak and magnolia trees.  These trees are adapted to our soils and climate.  They are healthier and more vigorous. They will be more disease resistant, eliminating the need for pesticides and fungicides.   When a variety of natives are planted they provide a natural look, and provide wildlife habitat.  Your best bet for buying native trees will be to visit a locally owned supplier.  The local vendors know where the trees have been grown and they understand local soil conditions.  Below is a list of some native plants suppliers in this area:

Charvet’s Garden Center, (speak to Scott), Clearview and West Esplanade in Metairie, (504)888-7700

Mizell’s Farm, Jimmy Mizel, Hwy 25, Folsom, (985)796-9309

Half Moon Gardens, Craig Houin, Hwy 59, Abita Springs, (985)809-5010

Trees for sale come in different packaging:  containers, balled & burlapped, bare root or dug-in-the-wild.  Container trees suffer the least transplant shock as their root system is the least disturbed during the planting process.  Balled and burlapped trees, since they are harvested before being packaged for sale, suffer because the roots are cut in the process. Bare-root trees are usually seedlings 18 to 24 inches tall and require care to prevent the roots from drying out before planting.  Dug-in-the-wild means just that and these trees should also be planted as soon as possible to prevent roots from drying out.  The container in which the tree comes is not as important as the care taken during and after planting. 

Help your trees get off to a good start by planting now in the cooler months to reduce transplant shock and allow the trees to establish their root systems before Spring signals the trees to start leafing out.  When digging the hole, go wide but not too deep.  The best method is to shape your hole like a shallow bowl with irregular sides.  Place the tree in the hole after removing it from its container or, if it is a ball and burlapped tree, place it in the hole wrapped.  If the tree was in a container and exhibits any root girdling, fan the roots out. With the ball and burlapped tree, once in the hole, remove any wire or twine and fold down the burlap around the tree.  Now start filling the hole with the soil you dug out to begin with, packing the soil down gently as you go to eliminate air pockets.  Once the soil is in place, water the tree deeply for several minutes.  Follow these same instructions for transplanting dug-in-the-wild trees.  As for bare root trees, I plunge a shovel into the ground and pry open a crack, then place the seedling into the opening. A few inches from the original hole place your shovel back in the ground and pack that soil back toward the seedling, and now you’re done, except to water in, of course.

For many years it was recommended that you prune your newly planted tree, but that is not the case anymore.  The only pruning that should be done is to remove dead and broken limbs.  Pruning anything other than dead limbs encourages the trees to start producing new growth at the wrong time of year.

Loretta Boswell

Those aren't reindeer eating that corn! A corn feeder provides an alternative for those hungry deer who often like to visit my garden and eat my strawberries, okra and squash.

What about staking and mulching?  Staking is only necessary if you have a tall and unstable tree and stakes should be removed within the year.  Otherwise, don’t bother.  Mulching is probably the most important gift you can give your tree, second only to watering during dry weather.  Mulch should be 3 to 4 inches deep after compaction, and 18 inches to several feet wide around the tree.  The best mulches are wood chips, leaves or pine straw.  Leave a 2-3 inch wide mulch-free perimeter around the trunk.  Mulches decompose quickly in our area, so don’t forget to replace it yearly.  As I’ve stated in an earlier article, mulching prevents damage by mowers and trimmers, conserves moisture, moderates the temperature of the soil and roots and feeds the tree naturally.

Watering is important when the tree is first planted for it to settle in.  Subsequently, be sure to water deeply (not frequently) every 10 days in hot, dry weather during the first year.  Continue for up to two years if you planted large trees. 

Some good books to purchase for you or as a gift for a friend who is a gardening enthusiast include:

Gardening with Native Plants of the South by Sally Wasowski

Trees, Shrubs and Woody Vines of Louisiana by Charles Allen et al.

A Pocket Guide to Louisiana Native Trees, Friends of Hilltop Artoretum, Baton Rouge, www.lsu.edu/hilltop. 

An excellent online resource is:  “Trees for Louisiana Landscapes, a Handbook” (pamphlet) at www.lsuagcenter.com.

Next month, I’ll discuss selecting that perfect fruit tree for your home landscape as well as what is going on in your flower beds.

Vegetable gardening:  As I mentioned earlier, my vegetable garden took quite a hit with the last freeze.  I had one thermometer reading 23^°F and another reading 27^°F. It was cold!  The plants were covered with row covers, but unfortunately, with the wind gusting, these were blown off during the night and the freeze took its toll.  Gone is my cauliflower which was heading quite nicely.  Some greens melted, like the chard and beets and some greens scalded, like the kale and collards. As time has permitted, I’ve been pruning off the dead leaves and have noticed that tiny new leaves are already emerging.  Hurt a little, but not as much, were the cabbage, turnips, broccoli, lettuce, onions, garlic, carrots, spinach, parsley, cilantro, oregano, chives, thyme and rosemary.  Before the freeze, as we were enjoying the 80+ degree weather, the pests were also enjoying my garden greens.  The flea beetles made quick work of my mustard greens before moving on to my turnip greens. I hate to be mean, but I hope they froze to death this time. 

December is usually a slow time in the garden, but some things can be done now, according to the LSU Ag Center.  You can still plant onion transplants, shallot sets or green transplants, lettuce, spinach, endive, escarole and cabbage.  Root crops and greens can also be planted.  In the greenhouse, you can start cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower seed for spring planting.  Mushroom logs can also be cut at this time.  Looking ahead to January, this is a good time to prep your garden beds by cleaning out the weeds, shaping the beds and adding compost.  If you are not sure of the condition of your soil, take a sample to your local ag center to have it analyzed.

Winter, no matter where you live, is the time to make soup.  Nothing warms you up in quite the same way.  Last month I made a tortilla soup that was rather tasty.  This month, the recipe that I am anxious to try is Broccoli Soup.  I have not made it yet, since I needed to go out and buy an immersion blender but, reading over the recipe, I think this one will be a keeper, since with a little tweaking of the optional toppings, it can be made quite healthy. 

Broccoli Soup, recipe courtesy of Food Network Kitchens

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil

1 medium onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, smashed

1 russet potato, peeled and diced

Pinch dried thyme leaves

½teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

4 cups chicken broth, homemade or low-sodium canned

1 (16 oz.) package frozen broccoli (I would use my freshly picked broccoli!)

 2 to 4 tablespoons cream or half & half, optional

Freshly ground black pepper

Optional toppings:  shaved Parmesan, shredded cheddar or crumbled bacon

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan, over medium heat.  Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Add the potato, thyme, salt, and broth and bring to a boil.  Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook uncovered until the potato is fork tender, about 10 minutes.  Add the broccoli and simmer for 3 minutes.  Puree the soup in batches in a blender or with an immersion blender.  Return soup to the pot and add the cream.  Bring to a simmer, taste, and season with salt and pepper.  Serve with optional toppings.

December 22nd was our winter solstice.  The end of Fall and the beginning of Winter.  Within a few days a New Year begins and with it a new list of resolutions for everyone. Here’s hoping that gardening finds its way onto that list.

Again, here’s wishing everyone a very Happy Holiday season!

Thank you for reading.  If you have any questions or comments, I can be reached by e-mail at lally@bellsouth.net.

Loretta Boswell

St. Tammany Master Gardener