They are one of the earliest, edible signs that, in the immortal words of singer Al Johnson, “it’s Carnival time.”  Whether iced or sugared, traditional or stuffed with any number of fillings, king cakes have become inescapable and big business, in the weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday.  More than that, they have also become a year-round commodity, sold and shipped to customers worldwide.

To many Carnival purists, it is near sacrilege to eat a slice before Twelfth Night, the feast of the Epiphany, also known as King’s Day – January 6.  On that date Christians commemorate the visit of the three wise men, or Magi, to Jesus’ manger in Bethlehem.  The king cake originated in Europe as part of the religious celebration.  Borrowing a Spanish custom (which some say 16th century France adopted as well), the Creoles served the cake at balls held on the sixth.  Inside was tucked a small object, usually a ring, a bean or later a pecan.  The person who got the lucky slice became king or queen of the ball, and chose someone from the crowd as their partner.  The two would reign as monarchs of the party, and would be responsible for hosting the next ball.  Sound familiar?  The custom has changed over the years, but the premise is the same.

King cakes (now most often topped with purple, green and gold sugar to represent the colors of Carnival) have become common sights in the workplace, at schools, parties – really anywhere 3 or more people are gathered this time of year.  The beans, rings, porcelain dolls or pecans inside them were replaced by plastic baby dolls after World War II.  The credit for that idea goes to the late, lamented McKenzie’s Pastry Shoppes.  Some say the baby was to represent the Christ child.  Another story has a more practical explanation.  McKenzie’s owner got a good deal on some of the little pink dolls, found out they wouldn’t melt if baked in a cake, and thought they worked better than porcelain dolls, beans or pecans.  Before long, most of the bakeries in town were using them.  And the babies became a Carnival symbol themselves.

If you ever ate a slice of McKenzie’s king cake, you probably remember it as somewhat dry slab of dough, simply topped with sugar.  Icing came later, followed by all kinds of toppings and filling.  Bakers’ creativity ran wild, and now you can get a king cake stuffed with nearly anything imaginable.  You can also have it shipped worldwide, and ordering one is easier than ever, thanks to the internet.

Two Carnival organizations use the king cake to crown their royalty.  The high society ball of the Twelfth Night Revelers includes the custom of hiding a gold bean inside a wooden version of a cake.  Though the recipient is selected beforehand, the choice remains a mystery, since the queen does not know until she’s handed a “slice.”

Members of another group, the Phunny Phorty Phellows, enjoy king cakes on board the streetcar January 6, as they take to the streets to proclaim the arrival of the Carnival season.  The man who selects the piece with the baby inside is proclaimed “the Boss.”  The woman who does the same, is his queen.

Everything old is new again in the world of king cakes.  In recent years, French bakeries in the area have begun selling cakes like the ones made in France: made from a brioche dough and containing an almond paste filling.  It looks different but tastes wonderful.

Whatever the recipe, king cakes are a delicious piece of the past, and ever present sign of the season.  Just remember the cardinal Carnival rule: you get the baby, you buy the next cake!

Sources:
Laborde, Errol, Mardi Gras: A Celebration, New Orleans, Picayune Press, 1981
Monaghan, Liz Scott, “Sugared Babies: How McKenzie’s Brought the Baby to King Cakes,” New Orleans Magazine, February 2003