New cream shows promise in fighting wrinkles, sun damage

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by Meg Farris / Medical Reporter

wwltv.com

Posted on February 11, 2011 at 11:35 PM

Updated Saturday, Feb 12 at 1:39 AM

There's a new skin cream that promises to fight the signs of aging and sun damage from many different angles.

Researchers at NeoStrata Company have been testing a new skin care line. They say there are multiple reasons the skin ages so there is no single ingredient that can address them all. So they have come up with the latest quartet of products that will hit the market on April 1.

"The Skin Active line is meant to be the best cosmeceutical line available and it would certainly potentially rival some topical prescription anti-aging formulations," said Barbara Green.

Pharmacist and Chemist Green is Vice-President of Clinical Affairs at NeoStrata and she and others from the company came to the American Academy of Dermatologists convention last week in New Orleans to unveil their new line. Studies show after three months, there's improvement.

"The study results so far are showing that the active Skin Active regimen, is outperforming the placebo on all of the graded parameters at 12 weeks including for fine lines and wrinkles, appearance of modeled pigmentation, skin laxity, roughness, firmness and then lifting of the eye area appearance and reducing crepiness around the eyes on the eyelid texture," Green explained.

They say what makes this product different is that it has many active ingredients all in one. Some have long been proven and on the market, such as retinol and a variety of strong antioxidants such as chardonnay grape seed extract, peptides and sun screen to prevent new damage. But Skin Active also has other ingredients that are just catching the attention of researchers.

"The apple stem cell extract itself is derived from an apple from a rare Swiss apple tree variety and the interesting thing about this apple tree is that it produces apples that have a naturally long shelf life. And when those nutrients are applied to human skin cells, it's been shown to maintain and promote the longevity of human skin stem cells and that's really important because the human skin epidermal stem cells are important in the cellular regeneration process of the skin. That is an ongoing process," Green added.

"The Swiss apple stem cell extract has been looked at in tissue culture and it slows cellular aging down. So we can actually make the older skin start behaving more like it did when it was younger," explained Dr. Patricia Farris, a dermatologist in practice in Metairie and the spokesperson for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery.

Dr. Farris is the medical monitor on the clinical trial of Skin Active. And she says it also has two matrix boosting ingredients, products that can stimulate collagen production.

"We should see an improvement in the appearance of the deeper lines and wrinkles as well as the fine lines and wrinkles because we're building up that dermal matrix the supporting structure of the skin," Dr. Farris surmised.

"So it's a combination of peptides, growth factors, it's a combination of retinol, it's a combination of pigment brightening agents, so it really is sort of like a gumbo of products," New Orleans Dermatologist Dr. Mary Lupo said.

Skin Active is a cosmeceutical, so you won't need a prescription.

So how does it stand up to the clinically proven number one wrinkle fighter and gold standard, prescription retinoids such as Retin-A, Tazorac, Renova and Differin?

“Well, I think unless you do a head to head study, we don't know the answer to that question and we don't compare our cosmeceuticals really to our pharmaceuticals," said Dr. Farris.

"I'm of the opinion, if you have access to prescription retinoids, one should use them. I think this is for people who absolutely under no circumstance can tolerate prescription retinoids. I think you could probably use it in conjunction with your prescription retinoids," said Dr. Lupo about Skin Active.

"For the people who are really the strong users of the prescription retinoids and want to continue using them, they can be layered with the skin active regimen," explained Green.

So you could use the four Skin Active products alone, or if you tolerate prescription retinoids, layer them, with the prescription first and Skin Active on top at night. Or alternate them on different nights. But some may like Skin Active alone because it doesn't cause any flakiness.

"The products were very well tolerated and very well liked. Over, I think, it was 93 percent of the participants (in the study) preferred the Skin Active regimen to their regularly used skin care products," Green said.

Of course you won't get surgical or laser results. But pictures show a difference in the skin and a special camera shows a reduction of hidden pigment sun damage.

The line will be out April 1 in doctors' offices and online. The wash is $35, the day cream $60, the night cream $79 and the eye cream $75. They will each last two to three months. The one month starter kit with all the products is $79. For more call 1-800-628-9904 or go to: www.neostrata.com.

Net Friday at 10 p.m. on Channel 4, the makers of one product say some new, breakthrough research has enhanced a popular skin care line.  Meg Farris introduces you to one woman who says when she tried it on just half of her face, the results were striking.  The story, in Wrinkle Free Friday, Feb. 18 at 10 p.m. on Channel 4.

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Editor's note: Dr. Patricia Farris is no relation to Medical Reporter Meg Farris.

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