Make me a match
We test local retailers in the wine-and-food equivalent of a blind date03:08 PM CST on Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Sometimes, it's hard to match a wine with an entrée. That's why restaurants hire sommeliers, and liquor stores hire sales reps with impressive wine credentials.
We tested the wine smarts of seven area liquor stores by anonymously seeking help matching a wine to a special dish: Pot-Roasted Brisket With Apples. ( Recipe.)
The dish is more complex than its name implies. The brisket is crusted with a spicy coriander, black pepper and allspice rub. It's braised in a dry white-wine chicken broth that's sparked with ginger and sweetened with tart apples and raisins.
Since the brisket can be made ahead, the spicy, tangy, sweet sauce benefits from a day in the fridge to meld the flavors.
We recited that flavor-and- ingredient profile at every store we visited and asked for a wine recommendation under $15.
Then we tested the picks with the help of Paul Pinnell, a sommelier and general manager of Nana, and Blythe Beck, executive chef of Hector's on Henderson, who's known for her upscale comfort food.
Taste editor Cathy Barber was the fourth taster.
Overall, the panel was impressed with the quality of the wines selected, even if they weren't the right match. The reasoning behind the picks seemed logical, but the complexity of the sauce proved a challenge for most of the selections.
To be fair, it also challenged our preconceived notions of what wines would work – or not.
After tasting the seven wines, Mr. Pinnell had some suggestions of his own; we tested those, too.
The take-home lesson from this exercise: Match the wine with the sauce, not the meat.
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.
RETAILER: Majestic Fine Wines and Spirits (formerly Red Coleman's); 14733 Inwood Road, Addison
NOTES: "Nice wine, especially for an apéritif, but not the right match for this dish." The wine's acidity complemented the spicy ginger and coriander flavors, but it lacked the body to hold up against the dish.
ETC.: We hadn't expected a white wine selection. Although this one wasn't the right match, it led us to consider that another white could be. The wine was purchased on moving day; we hit up the sales rep amid the frenzy.
RETAILER: Goody Goody Liquors; 2937 Greenville Ave.
NOTES: "Off-putting color and muddled flavor," said one taster. Another detected an almost vinegary note. All agreed that the wine was too light for the dish.
ETC.: Service was friendly, but the sales rep seemed uncertain of her picks. She consulted with an associate, but he didn't hear our full ingredient list. She offered another choice initially: the wine of the week, a fruity Beaujolais that was too light.
RETAILER: Farpointe Cellars; 1125 Legacy Drive, Frisco
NOTES: "Nice dustiness; bright fruit that is classic." "Nice depth and character." The wine worked well for the meat, but all agreed that there was no marriage with the sauce.
ETC.: A very good pinot noir that could work for a neutral meat like brisket, but the lack of magic with the sauce edged it out of the running. Still, an excellent value wine worth buying for another dish, like roast chicken.
RETAILER: WineStyles; 859 State Highway 121, Lewisville
NOTES:
Good flavor. The wine melds well with the sauce, bringing out its sweetness. But it overwhelms the meat. "This would be great with a tomato-based sauce," noted one taster.
ETC.: Again, a good wine, just not the right match here.
RETAILER: The Wine Market and More; 3858 Oak Lawn in Turtle Creek Village
NOTES: A light shiraz. One taster liked the spiciness; one found it too spicy. Another described it "warm and plummy with a hint of leather." Although light enough for the beef, it did nothing for the sauce.
ETC.: This is the store's best-selling shiraz, and deeply discounted the week we bought it. At this price, we should have bought another bottle to serve with grilled meat.
RETAILER: Sigel's Fine Wines and Great Spirits; 2800 Routh St., in the Quadrangle
NOTES:
"Intriguing. A little spicy, with a ripeness that works with the dish." "A magnificent wine for the price." Three of the four testers found this the best match of the bunch.
ETC.:
The sales rep was genuinely enthused about his selections, but kept going over the $15 mark. After backing off of his $19.99 and $17.99 picks, we decided to go a buck over budget. A good call.
RETAILER: Centennial Fine Wines and Spirits; 6312 La Vista Drive
NOTES: A big wine, with deep rich flavors. "Very compelling. Magnificent, but overpowering; would be better with lamb, antelope or wild game."
ETC.: Although it didn't make it with the dish, on its own, this was the favorite wine. We finished off the bottle after the tasting. An excellent value wine.
We shopped at local liquor or wine stores. Some tips based on our experience and the tasting panel's recommendations:
Ask to speak with a wine specialist. Most liquor stores have a sales representative who's well versed in wine. If the salesperson consults with another, be sure both have all the information about the dish. Sometimes, the details get lost in translation.
Describe your sauce. The sauce carries the flavor of the dish more than the meat. Include details about its base (tomato, cream, wine, stock) and seasonings (specific herbs and spices). If you've tasted the dish before, offer descriptions such as spicy-tangy-sweet, or smoky-spicy.
Don't assume that beef dictates red and seafood, white. Think in terms of body and intensity, which vary widely in reds and whites as well as meats and seafoods. A pinot noir could pair with grilled meat or salmon. A full-bodied white could stand up to some meats, depending on how they're prepared.
Going a dollar over your budget is one thing. But if the retailer pushes wines well over your budget, reiterate your price limit. There are wines for every budget, and a retailer who wants your return business will respect yours.
With the benefit of having tasted the dish with many wines, we were able to fine-tune our search for a perfect pairing. We sought a white that could masquerade as a red, in terms of body and intensity. And for die-hard red fans, we wanted a red that lent body without overwhelming the dish. Mr. Pinnell and Ms. Beck had numerous suggestions. We tasted their picks with the brisket, and discovered these excellent matches.
Masi Valpolicella 2003 ($15.50, Sigel's)
Fruitier and softer than the other reds we tested. Velvety, yet light, it enhanced the flavors of the brisket but didn't fight the sauce. Instead, the spice in the wine and sauce matched. "I can't imagine anyone not liking this wine. It's amazing, a very user-friendly red," Mr. Pinnell says.
Anime Prosecco
($12.99, Central Market)
A sparkler with brisket? "It's a naughty way to take homey American cuisine to the next level," says Ms. Beck. This sparkly prosecco tastes like the sauce. "It gets the flavors dancing." Since the meat has a neutral flavor, it's compatible with the sparkler. "It's an unexpected pairing that works. That's great entertaining."
King Estate 2005 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($12.42, Goody Goody)
A perfect match. The viscosity of pinot gris complements both the beef and the gingery sauce.
Perrin Cote du Rhone Reserve ($8.79, Goody Goody)
Best buy. Don't let the petrol nose or the screw-cap put you off. This full-bodied Rhone blend goes well with the fattiness in the brisket and enhances the sauce. "Rhone wines have an earthiness and texture that gives it the full-bodied quality of a red," says Mr. Pinnell. "At this price, I'd have it in my fridge every day."
Jekel Gravelstone Chardonnay 2003 ($11.99, Sigel's)
The ultimate match. This wine pulled everything together on the plate. "The kiss of oak in this wine cuts through the fattiness of the meat and enhances the flavor experience," says Mr. Pinnell. "The weight and body of the wine make it a nice match for this dish." "The pairing makes you want to keep eating and drinking," adds Ms. Beck. "This makes for a great, surprise dining experience."
Watch out for: Clerks who seem distracted, or who immediately steer you to the weekly special no matter what food you're serving.