Toasting the new year at home
Panel plans the wines for an intimate dinner10:54 AM CST on Wednesday, December 27, 2006
This month, the tasting panel celebrated early by choosing wines for a five-course New Year's Eve dinner.
With this menu, you can skip the crowds and have a leisurely and festive meal at home, with stellar wine pairings, for a fraction of the price of dining out.
Start with a sparkler and appetizer pairing. Then move to the dining room for your winter feast.
It opens with a seasonal salad of fennel, oranges, aged pecorino and pomegranate seeds. An elegant cauliflower soup garnished with a seared scallop and caviar follows. The star of the show is a hearty entrée of Greek-style braised lamb shanks (best if prepared a day ahead).
Dessert is an easy assembly of purchased dark-chocolate gelato topped with warmed dulce de leche and a sprinkling of sea salt; it's inspired by the luxe caramel candies that boutique chocolatiers sell.
• Choice of appetizers with sparkling wine
• Shaved Fennel with Oranges, Pecorino and Pomegranates*
• Cauliflower Soup with Seared Scallops, Caviar and Lemon Oil*
• Greek-style Braised Lamb Shanks* served over buttered orzo
• Dark Chocolate Gelato topped with bottled dulce de leche and sea salt
*Recipe given
We convened our wine panel to pick wines under $25 for the salad and the lamb. The menu is written for a party of six, so you should be able to get by with one bottle per course.
We came up with an interesting variety of wines for the salad – a welcome break from the predictable sauvignon blanc.
And some lesser-known reds made for dazzling matches with the lamb. These wines need to open up to realize their full, complex character, so plan to uncork them 45 minutes to an hour before serving.
THE TASTING ASSIGNMENT: Pick wines under $25 for two courses of a New Year's Eve menu
DISHES: Salad of Shaved Fennel with Oranges, Pecorino and Pomegranates; entrée of Greek-Style Braised Lamb Shanks
TOP WINES: The Melville 2005 Viognier and the Col di Luna Rose di Valmonte tied for best match with the salad. The lamb had four great wine matches, but the Abadia Retuerta Seleccion Especial 2003 came out on top.
TASTERS: George Howald of Serendipity Wine Imports; Paul Pinnell, sommelier and general manager of Nana in the Hilton Anatole; Blythe Beck, executive chef of Hector's on Henderson; Features Editor Cathy Barber; freelance writer Tina Danze.
Bonus recipe: Cauliflower Soup with Seared Scallops, Caviar and Lemon Oil
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• Holiday wine tasting panel
• Make me a match
WITH THE SALAD
Melville Viognier 2005 (Sigel's, $18.99)
With its fresh, lively flavors and good acidity, this silky viognier marries beautifully with the salad. The wine's floral notes enhance the fennel and pomegranate. True to the varietal character, unlike many California whites.
Verdict: A great choice for this salad, and a very good expression of classic viognier.
Palmina Tocai Friulano 2005 (Sigel's, $19.99)
This wine suffered from the tasting order (sampled after the well-matched viognier). "Nice initial impression, but the finish is short." The wine matches up well with the Pecorino, but overall, it wasn't as good a marriage as the viognier.
Verdict: Keep it in mind as an alternative to a pinot grigio for a hostess gift.
Col di Luna Rose di Valmonte (Jimmy's Food Store, Tony's Wine Warehouse, $21.99)
The panel loved everything about this sparkler, from its incredibly toasty nose to its clean flavors and effervescence. It complements all elements in this complex salad; in particular, it meets the challenge of making the pomegranate seeds pop. Beautiful and bubbly, it's a polished wine.
Verdict: Great festive wine and a great pairing, especially if you're a fan of sparklers.
WITH THE LAMB
Lorca Fantasia Malbec-Syrah, 2005 (Pogo's, Vino 100, Farpointe Cellars, Goodies from Goodman, $11.99)
This one generated lots of discussion, in part because of its value. Clean, rich flavors make it an excellent pairing; it matches nicely with the sauce and stands up to the gaminess of the lamb. One taster noted a "nice licorice note"; another thought it would be good for those who want a hint of oak. We tasted all the reds just after uncorking, and again 45 minutes later. This one "develops into a beauty, with even more complexity."
Verdict: A great match. A crowd-pleaser and a steal at this price.
Abadia Retuerta Selección Especial 2003 (Central Market, The Wine Market and More, Pogo's, $20)
This smooth, round Spanish blend (75% tempranillo, 20% cabernet, 5% merlot) is an ideal match. Strong and full-bodied, it has enough character to stand up to this hearty dish. "The minty, eucalyptus notes worked well with the juniper in the lamb sauce." The wine is from the Sardon de Duero, a region that borders the prestigious Ribera del Duero.
Verdict: An amazing pairing and an alternative to pricier Ribera del Duero wines. Overall, the best match of the bunch.
Spelt La Valentina 2001 (Pogo's, and Centennial on Preston Road at Sherry Lane, $21.99)
An odd name, but this Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was another winner with the lamb. It's a dusty, drier, more rustic style. All of our tasters loved it; but one felt some people may find it too rustic. "Both the wine and the lamb sauce have a cocoa character, so they complement one another," one taster said. Another noted that the wine's acidity works to the pairing's advantage. "The anchovy aspect of the sauce calls for something to wake you up between bites." This wine did it.
Verdict: A classic, rustic-style wine that's another great match.
Chateau La Prade Bordeaux Cotes de Francs 2001 (Sigel's, Pogo's, $24.99 )
With a more straightforward lamb dish, this wine would have worked; but the sauce proved too complex for this wine. Bordeaux fans should make a note of it for another dish, such as roast leg of lamb; at $24.99, it's not just an affordable Bordeaux but an excellent value. The exporter's family owns Chateau Le Pin and Vieux-Chateau-Certan, makers of some of the most collectable wines in the world.
Verdict: Not a match for this dish, but put it on your shopping list.
Red Mud Reserve Petit Verdot (Mr. G's in Plano, some Centennial stores, some Majestic stores, $29.99)
We went over budget, and this stunning wine proved worthy of our splurge. Hints of chocolate, cinnamon and spice play well with the complex flavors in the sauce. The wine lingers on the palate, has layers of complexity, and holds up well to the lamb. "Both the wine and food are allowed to shine; it's a marvelous pairing."
Verdict: A standout. A superb match. It's a tie with the Abadia Retuerta for best pairing, but the win goes to the wine that stayed within budget.
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Cut fennel bulbs in half, then cut into very thin slices. Place in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice and olive oil. Squeeze about 1 tablespoon of orange juice from the reserved membranes (or to taste).
Add the orange segments, pomegranate seeds and fennel fronds, tossing very gently with your hands to combine. You don't want to break up the oranges or pomegranate seeds. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Arrange on 6 individual plates. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the pecorino in long shards over each plate and serve. Makes 6 servings.
SOURCE: Adapted from Molto Italiano
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Preheat oven to 325 F. Heat oil in large ovenproof pot (wide enough to hold lamb in single layer) over medium-high heat. Sprinkle lamb on all sides with salt and pepper. Add lamb to pot and sauté until brown, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes. Transfer lamb to plate.
Add next 10 ingredients to pot. Sauté until vegetables brown, about 20 minutes. Mix in tomato paste. Add wine and all broth; boil until liquid is reduced by half, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Return lamb to pot, arranging in single layer; add accumulated juices. Bring to boil.
Place lamb in oven and cook uncovered until fork-tender, basting and turning occasionally, about 2 ½ to 31/2 hours. After 2 ½ hours, cover the pot to avoid excess evaporation.
Transfer lamb to plate. Skim fat from top of roasting liquid. Press all liquid and enough of vegetables through sieve set over large bowl to make sauce with a gravy consistency. Return gravy to pot; add lamb. Season with salt and pepper; if flavors are too strong, add optional brown sugar. Transfer to platter and serve with buttered orzo. Makes 6 servings.
Note: This dish is best if made one day ahead; flavors mellow and meld overnight. If making ahead, cool slightly, refrigerate uncovered until cold, then cover and keep refrigerated. Reheat over low heat. If sauce is too thin, simmer uncovered.
SOURCE: Adapted from The Bon Appétit Cookbook
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.