Holiday wine tasting: An easy party menu
03:51 PM CST on Tuesday, January 30, 2007
This month, our tasting panel set out to plan an easy holiday appetizer menu with a Southern flavor.
We asked chef Blythe Beck of Hector's on Henderson to develop two appetizer recipes. Wine pairing recommendations came from George Howald of Serendipity Wine Imports and Paul Pinnell, a sommelier and general manager of Nana in the Hilton Anatole. They also formed our tasting panel, along with food editor Cathy Barber and me.
Chef Beck gave two Southern party staples sophisticated twists. Her Dirty South Sausage Balls are made with pork sausage wrapped in puff pastry. Meaty mushroom caps proved a great vehicle for chef Beck's garlicky filling of shrimp, spinach and Gruyere cheese.
Although she supersized her appetizers to make them fork-and-plate starters, the recipes can be made into small bites for finger food.
We expected to pair a red wine with the sausage balls and a white with the mushrooms, but the tasting revealed some surprises. We also found some remarkable value wines.
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.
Casa Julia Sauvignon Blanc 2005
$7.99, Central MarketThis Chilean proved a cool, refreshing, food-friendly wine. Tasters agreed that the wine's herbal quality worked well with the mushroom's meatiness. "Sauvignon blanc is almost always a safe wine pairing choice. This one is particularly suitable because it's not exaggerated in any way."
Verdict: A safe party wine, and the least expensive of the wines tasted
Kris Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2005
$10.99, Cost Plus World Market
Although there was nothing unsound about this wine, it was less effective in standing up to the stuffed mushroom. It had a nice body and viscosity, but the wine was challenged by the garlic in the stuffed mushroom, and failed to bring out the seafood. It wasn't a match for the sausage balls, either.
Verdict: Although a good, crisp wine and a potential crowd pleaser on its own, there was no food marriage here.
Bridgeview Blue Moon Riesling 2005
$10.99, Whole Foods Market, Central Market, WinestylesTasters found this Oregon wine a refreshing match for the spicy sausage balls, but not the stuffed mushroom. Its sweet, fruity quality enhanced the pork.
Verdict: Should appeal to fans of mildly sweet wines
Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2005, Marlborough
$12.99, widely available
More than any other white sampled, it tasted even better with the food than on its own. The pork accentuated the wine's fruit component, and the wine cut through the cayenne in the pork. An excellent example of how food-friendly a good New Zealand-style sauvignon blanc can be.
Verdict: A winner. The standout of the whites, this one matched well with both the Gruyere in the stuffed mushroom and the spicy sausage balls.
Aneri Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
$18 at Jimmy's Food Store
A ringer, brought in as an afterthought after sampling all the whites. A good choice if you want to serve a sparkler. Unlike Champagne, it doesn't have the high acidity that can make it overbearing. Refreshing, with a nice weight and body. Well priced, and in a package you won't be embarrassed to show.
Verdict: Another palate-cleanser wine that could accompany either the mushroom or the pork. Only problem: It exceeded our budget.
Falesco Vitiano 2004
$11.99, The Wine Market & More
A poor man's Super Tuscan (it's equal parts sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot). It delivered lots of "solid fruit flavors without overwhelming the food." Good body and texture. Some tasters found it the best wine match for the pork dish. "The cayenne and the wine complement one another." "The winemaker is a rock star in the wine world – very highly regarded," says Mr. Pinnell.
Verdict: All applauded its great value. (It's sold by the glass at Nana.) A big hit with the pork.
Carlo Giacosa Dolcetto d'Alba "Cuchet"
$12.99, Centennial, Preston and Northwest Highway
A lighter, fruitier red that has some structure to it. "Extremely focused; sometimes Italian wines take on an earthy mustiness, but this dolcetto has a pure nose and pure flavors." Although "brilliant by itself, the spiciness of the pork takes it to the next level." Its acidity was a plus. "Usually consumers request something smooth. But this wine shows how acidity is your friend when it comes to food. With something as rich as the Gruyere in the mushrooms and the sausage in puff pastry, this is a red that actually picks your palate back up after a bite and a sip. The flavors are seamless from start to finish."
Verdict: The Winner. An excellent, versatile wine, good with both appetizers.
Peirano Estate Lodi Barbera 2003
$12.99, Central Market
An Italian varietal from Lodi, Calif.? You may not have heard of this light-bodied wine, but it's worth seeking out. Our tasters hailed it as "warm, expressive, and inviting; succulent, with silky, luxurious tannins;" and "fleshy with exuberant fruit, but enough structure so it doesn't come off as flabby or soft." One taster called it "liquid velvet."
Verdict: Tasters found it a good match for the pork. "Hard to imagine guests not being happy with this food and wine combo."
Chef Blythe Beck will serve the two recipes featured here as specials at Hector's on Henderson through Dec. 6.
2929 N. Henderson Ave.; 214-821-0432